Відео

By the way, the Dealership quoted 1 labor hour plus the part. $326.00 including a $36.00 shop supplies fee. LO' freakin L

Just replaced mine on a 2014 Ford Flex. Counting the time to get my 8mm socket, unlocking the car, opening the hood and replacing this, maybe 10 minutes total. Very easy. Thanks for the video.

Just started getting lots of misfires on cylinder #1, looks like all the rear coils and plugs are going to get replaced if I'm taking off that intake manifold. Gaskets too.

Well that rubber ripped. Use a vice guys, press it in, don't hammer

My 1997 bonneville drive belt replacement has a motor mount bolt in the way how do I work around that

Curious what can i expect to pay to have this issue fixed at an autoshop? Ballpark range is fine.

Hey I wanted to say thank you very much for this informative video. I have been dealing with this check engine light in my vehicle and every videos I see they say the same thing “it could be a bunch of things but most probably it’s your catalytic converter”, but you are the first person who actually takes the time to show what a clogged catalytic converter looks like, and from this I now understand why check engine lights can be thrown. Thank you very much this was very helpful and informative.

Can you teach how to rebuild the rack with a seal kit and new bellows?

The oil coming out of that engine looked nasty. That engine will need a LOT of work or a total rebuild before it'll run again.

Same issue on my Outback. Fan motor bearings were shot so replaced with junkyard part and no issues since.

Mine sounds more like a squeaky hinge. 2024 Equinox RS

Thanks for the video! Found the info (About setting the IAC Pintle if needed) very helpful! 👍

This is my second fuel pump for my escape in under two years, your video is the best help a person could ask for, clear sight of the details involved, combined with your commentary, makes it so easy. My problem has always been with the clips and tangs, I break those things all the time, so thank you for all the extra attention to that.

Thank you!!

Hey I have a problem. I have an 07 that we absolutely adore since new, now 240,000 miles. Back in December we replaced cv axles because of the aforementioned shaking under acceleration at higher speeds, they are remanufactured components. Our front struts were getting pretty worn as well and soon after we replaced those front struts as well, but here we are again with a another shake in the floorboards and steering wheel when on the gas particularly at higher speeds and under strain. My mechanic states that the replaced cv axles are indeed still fine. Rotors have just been replaced problem and the problem still was persistent before and after that as well. Any ideas? Tie rods are slightly loose but not bad, and I’m wondering if it could be something like ball joints yet again I don’t want to keep throwing money at random assortment of parts. Thanks for any input.

Thank you so much! I saw 2ar fe videos and jacked my car up and removed my wheel and searched and couldn't find my PCV valve anywhere! So then I decided to check my engine,... ehat do you know... 2AZ FE . Then I found your video, piece of cake! Much easier than the 2ar fe! Thanks again!

Thanks I’ve been pulling my hair out trying to figure my squeal out.

Question for you on this- how imperative is this repair? I’m going to take it in as soon as possible, but I do have a little trip this weekend that I need my truck for. The shop more than likely won’t have a time slot available for another week or so anyways.

mine was rattling its gone now and louder guessing it blew it out finally

hell yea our man didnt even have the part but wanted to still show us

Only difference inbetween this video and the super charged version. Is you have to take both of the belts off and remove the harmonic balancer wheel and the cam shaft position sensor is right behind it

I have a 2009 Nissan Altima 2.5s that does something simaler with a check engine light for the cat, cataclean oddly helps

Replace 3 times to get one good one …

I replaced blend door actuator on driver side of 2010 odyssey. But it still is blowing warm on driver side when on LOw and cold on passenger

hi thanks for helping people with this kind of videos , i wondering if you just connect 12v to testing open and close please let me know many thanks

I'd say a brass wire brush is preferable to a brillo pad since some of them have things in them that will destroy engine bearings in short order. Also, you should be able to just leave the coil packs plugged into the wire harness and just pull them out and lay it to the side. That'll save you from breaking any of the clips. Great video, thank you! It's always helpful to see what I'm getting into before I do.

Absolutely amazing video. I suspect I have a blown head...this video is superb in helping me diagnose the problem. THANK YOU!!!

What does it mean if it says input is high under the p1401 code? Is the egr valve stuck open?

Hey man, you didn’t mention it would be a real problem getting that 15 mm bolt on that timing cover before putting it on. I looked at your video and just copied your steps and then realized that it’s impossible to get this bolt in. I’m gonna have to lower the subframe.

Very Informative and helpful. Thanks

thanks! it shows up real bright neon green even without the glasses !

Lol , of all the videos addressing this, motor is out

When reinstalling the actuator, first take 3 2-inch screws and cut off the heads. Insert those into the 3 mounting holes under the dash. Now slide the actuator over these 3 posts and get the pins in the slots. Those posts will hold the actuator in place while you remove them one-by-one and put back the original screws.

Hello to all!! I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey ex-l. VSA light came on and after a while it started losing power. Pulled over and let it rest and i was able to reach my destination only 3 miles away. The following day, i took it to my mechanic and he put engine oil and i believe also trans oil in it and it was good for i’ll say another 1200 miles and it brokedown again on the freeway in the middle of nowhere central valley california, with about 100 more miles away to my destination. A good sam stopped and helped me out and we ended up putting 2 1/2 bottles of oil in it and it took me about 70 miles and i felt it losing power again. I finally called for a tow and it cost me 400$ to get towed to my house 37 miles away. The vehicle has about 210k miles on it and i am the 3rd owner. The engine light came on a few days after i bought it from a private party. My mechanic says the code shows catalytic converter but he told me its okay to drive it without getting fixed. I’m a senior on a retired income. What do u suggest I do first before allowing a mechanic to make repairs? I really dont have much money for this. Thank u and God bless!!

great video- you are a great teacher, breaking it down into pieces and using easy to understand terminology, excellent job

FL5 Type R owner here. I have started to hear the same annoying noise after I ran over a pothole. I was worried if my steering rack was damaged, but after I saw your video, I have replaced the strut mount on both side, and then the noise has went away. Thank you very much for this video!

Would this cause the traction control light to come on with lack of performance I suspect my turbo but this is the exact noise I have

I done everything like you did, when I added freeon the line frozen and the oil I put into the pump started coming out and the pump doesn't seem to kick on like a supposed to, I don't know what I did wrong

Wow that's easier than taking candy from a baby, now lets see how much disassembly you'll have to do to surrounding harnesses to access a 6 or 8 cylinder coil pack connectors.

Ball joints dont usually fail unless the boot is deteriorated and all the grease leaked out, otherwise as long as boot isn't leaking the ball joint is fine.

I like that way of replacing the coolant, better than standing there and slowly pouring the coolant

Shouldn't the cap on the brake reservoir be removed before pushing the piston in?

Removed the idler assembly put the A/C belt behind the crank pulley and rolled it on with no help from the zip ties. Worked great. The best video for this project I have seen. Thanks

Would this apply to a 2013 taurus SEL?

Is there a way to confirm that the valve is bad? Should it be in the closed position?

but then what about if this is the caliper seizing itself after checking the rest? what do you do? Can you lubricate the bores?